Burt's Fusion Micro 114 build journal -- "The Murdock"


I got some cool bits, geeking at the prospect of some micro brushless builds, and just received my 1104s today, so I started dry fitting things, and, well… I could’ve used some “proper planning” before now…

With weights the way they are, I want to do these two things:

Pico X (10g with mounting and top plate) + Owl Ducts - (9g) + Racerstar 1104s


Fusion Micro 114 + canopy (7+2g) + Racerstar 1103s

I’ve got a Pico Blx and Cicada 4in1 ESC, and an Eachine Minicube FC+ESC. We’ll get to receivers later.

The Fusion Micro has a slot for the Pico Blx USB, which is a convenience for sure, but aside from that, it’s a tight fit for everything on the inside, plus it was designed for separate ESCs.

The Pico X has plenty of room (it seems), but with the heavier weight and larger motors, I want to put the Pico Blx and Cicada on that as I expect those are better built components than the Eachine stuff.

Three big questions:

  1. The Eachine FC and ESC fit easily together with a six-pin cable between them, but that adds width beyond the board widths. Can I connect those two by removing the female jacks on each board? I’ve never done surgery like that before.
  2. The Pico Blx has connectors for separate ESCs. How would I wire that to the Cicada 4in1?
  3. Is it safe to whittle away at the Fusion Micro material to get things to fit? To get the Eachine 4in1 ESC within the body, I’d have to turn the ESC 90° just to fit the board, and unless I remove the jacks and connector from Item 1 (above), then the sides of the boards won’t fit because of the six-pin connectors extending beyond the boards. Plus, the USB port on the Eachine FC won’t align with the original slot.

What’chall think?

Eachine FC + ESC with wiring

I want to get rid of… how do I do that?

Pico Blx + Cicada

UPDATE: I see info on wiring these two together here: New build itch

Misaligned USB Port

Should I just cut away?

The potentially awesome fit!

If I get rid of the connectors between the Eachine FC and ESC, then it’ll fit like this:


So, the six-pin cables are mostly for PWM signals between FC and ESC If I match those up, and provide for power, then I should be good, right?


That’s what I would think. Just make sure you get the right “orientation,” to make sure pos and neg aren’t mixed up with signals. I’ve read that some of the 20x20 ESC have connections in opposite order from provided cables, i.e. 4321GV instead of VG1234. If you’re going to solder directly, no need to worry about pulling plugs from the casing and rearranging. :wink:


Found this for my Pico Blx to Cicada 4in1:


Easy peasy.


I was really trying to plan things out and, as you said, case in point… the Eachine Minicube FC has a different pinout order for the connector to the Minicube ESC. It goes:

FC        ESC
GND  <--> GND
+5V  <--> +5V
PWM4 <--> PWM2
PWM3 <--> PWM1
PWM2 <--> PWM4
PWM1 <--> PWM3

That’s different than the Cicada 4in1 that has:

Signal 1
Signal 2
Signal 3
Signal 4

…and the Pico Blx which uses the middle pad of each three-pad set, in the “Quad X” arrangement:


The Pico Blx build seems odd at the moment. I just sent a question to FlexRC asking about orientation, as the USB port would be locked by a standoff used for the Owl 2 duct frame. They offer a 45° CF adapter for the FC, but I’m not sure if that’s the way to go. I’m awaiting a response from them.

My current plan is to practice removing female jacks from boards, in preparation for removing them from the Eachine FC and ESC, then wiring those directly for a very close fit, and then installation into the Fusion Micro 114. Then, cut/fit/solder motor wires to the ESC, add Rx, then fit a camera in the canopy (a bit of work needed for that, but similar to what I need to do for my mullets, freshly received from @NotFastEnuf).

Long day of work first…


If you try hard enough you can cram everything inside the fusion.

I removed the ports on the ESC and FC and soldered 30ga silicone wire to connect them instead.


I was going to hunt down your build. Cool, I’m on the same wavelength as you.


Successful step:


Suggestions on fortifying those wires? Just hot glue, or something better?


I’ve had mixed results with hot glue fortifying anything. Epoxy would be fortified but permanent. It’s a matter of what you value more … The security of knowing they aren’t coming loose, or the $$ that the board costs when you may/may not run into an issue re purposing it or making a repair down the road. If you do epoxy, test all your connections/wire lengths and fitments. Maybe leave a little extra wire to replace an esc. Then disassemble and do it. Personally, I epoxy stuff like that and don’t mind spending the $$ on a new board of I need to. Heck, at the rate things are improving … it may just collect dust by then anyway.


Interesting that there isn’t anything in between, in this world of extraordinary materials.

That said, I’m with you… I’ll probably epoxy unless something really cool comes along.



Well there is, but it’s all not easy to remove like hot glue. Given that, I suggest epoxy. You could consider the white foaming gorilla glue. That is pretty tough and would probably peel down the road. Messy stuff though. A little dab will do ya.


there is always liquid electrical tape yet for such small applications i chose to use plastic epoxy as well.
In my experience if i use something else the wires end up touching within a few crashes.


Use hot glue. It’s easily undone. Epoxy seems like a bad idea. I use black hot glue. It looks a bit better than the clear stuff. You can use the hot air from your SMD station to help smooth it out, and to warm it up for removal.


@burtlo: There is one more thing, RTV silicone. This is a white, caulk-like material that electronics manufacturers use. You may have seen it on the power lead of the Inductrix or Tiny Whoop.

Right, @tronaton. I have a bottle, but always forget about liquid electrical tape.

@Denovich: Speaking of which, it recently occurred to me to use purple hot glue, to color coordinate with purple anodized hardware. There apparently is such a thing. And many other colors, too. Makes me wonder why anybody would continue to use the clear hot glue. I guess because it’s cheap as chips, and works. :wink:


I didn’t imagine that liquid e-tape would provide much strengthening… mostly just insulating. My concern with liberal use of hot glue would be preventing heat dissipation.

I like silicone in general, but recently had a tube that got chunky, and lost all adhesion. I’ll look into the RTV silicone, though… don’t know anything about that.


Silicone works (silastic is name brand commonly used in electronics). It’s bomb proof. Which is the problem. Very difficult to remove. I take my stuff apart too frequently to worry about that crap.

Hot Glue is similar, but easily removed. I heat it up a bit and then roll a small screwdriver shaft over it. The glue sticks to the shaft, and as you roll it will peel up the rest of the glue (like using a fork to pick up spaghetti). This works better with the black glue I have than the clear low temp glue.

Liquid tape works when new. But it is a skin that is easily compromised. If you are using it for moisture protection that’s not great. It’s also a bit of a pain to remove.


Hot glue it is! I’ll look for fashionable colors while I’m at it… Maybe “Johnny Cash Black”…?


I like hot glue: