Micro Motor Community

Brushed Motor User Guide


Just a short and sweet guide to help people with brushed motors. These 5 tips will really help your motors last longer.

Mounting New Motors

MAKE SURE THAT YOUR PROP IS MOUNTED CORRECTLY AND NONE OF THE PROP SHAFT IS VISIBLE – this is by far and away the most common cause of pre-mature motor failure.

Please reference Dave Wood’s video to see why this is so important:

If your props do not sit flush against the can, you drill them out with a #62 wire gauge drill bit.

DO NOT PUSH FORCEFULLY ONTO THE PROP SHAFT WHEN MOUNTING PROPS OR MOTORS – the bottom caps (the plastic bottom piece where the motor wires enter the can) are easily dislodged from the motors and this will instantly ruin the motor. Once the bottom cap has popped out, there is no way to fix the motor. You may get the motor to spin again, but it will be much less powerful. Always support the end cap when mounting props and do not push very forcefully on the shaft.

Time to Fly!
Here are a few top tips to ensure your flying goes as smooth as possible:

  1. DO NOT APPLY THROTTLE WHEN THE PROPS CANNOT SPIN – if you land in tall grass or are pinned up against a wall, do not apply throttle. Giving lots of throttle when the props are obstructed will burn out a brushed motor in a matter of seconds. You want to make sure that you take off from a smooth surface and that the motors/props are always free from obstruction.

  2. CHECK BETWEEN YOUR MOTOR AND PROP FOR HAIR/DEBRIS – This is especially important if you live with animals or people with long hair. Just a single hair wrapped up on the prop shaft can significantly increase drag on the motors and slow down the quad. If you land in a dark corner behind a couch, be sure to check for debris caught on the prop shaft.

  3. CHECK THE TEMPERATURE OF YOUR MOTORS - This is mainly important if you are using high speed (KV) motors. You do not want to let your motors get so hot that you can not touch them. If they exceed 130-140F (55-60C), you are causing damage to the magnets and shortening the life of the motors. If you find this to be happening to you, you want to lower the weight of your quad and also possibly lower your PID rates if you are using a programmable FC. It is fine for motors to get warm, but they should not get exceedingly hot. If you are flying aggressively and warming up the motors, let them cool a bit (2 minutes) between flights. This will help ensure that the motors stay within the safe temperature range.


Great work @pilsnerpopper, awesome read and Iam sure it will help many! Thanks



I have found that replacing motors in most frames can be quite intimidating for me with the amount of force it takes to seat them properly.

I started using a few drops of alcohol around the can before pressing them in and what a difference it makes. They slide in and the alcohol evaporates. Removing them is exponentially easier as well!

Just don’t push down using the stator, I use a small socket to spread the force around the top of the can. Hope this helps. There are many other ways to accomplish this successfully, just thought I’d share what works for me🙂


Great post @pilsnerpopper :grinning: Also good tip @Kamsleo69 with the alcohol. As long as no one tries that with a beer :joy:

Another thing that is important is when people are mounting props that are very tight. The Hubsan clear props are notoriously tight and if you do not loosen them a little with some reeming and go to shove them on a motor without supporting the armature cap at the bottom there is a good chance of popping that cap that way too. I use an old motor shaft or a .95mm micro twist drill bit to open them a little but I think @Kamsleo69’s tip for inerting motors into the frame would maybe work for this too. I will have to try and see.


One more tip I’d thought I’d share here. I’m wondering if anybody else does this as well?
A while back I was lead to this:
Gardner Bender LTB-400 Liquid Electrical Tape, Easy-on, Waterproof, Indoor / Outdoor Use, 4 Oz. Jar, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPAN2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G.FjzbY653N8B

I use it now on the bottom of all my motors for just a bit of wire/road rash protection.


I also use liquid tape for the motor bottoms and any exposed power connections. Just make sure that whatever you goo it on is free of oil or solder paste residue or if will not adhere and will peel back.


Will the #62 bit work for both sizes of shafts for brushed motors?
615s and 716s same size shaft but 720 and 8520 1020s are a hair touch bigger.


615s and 716s have a 0.8mm shaft, so the #62 bit will not work. That bit is meant for 1mm prop shafts that are found on the 0720 and 8/8.5mm motors. I am not sure the proper size bit for the .8mm shaft, but using a blown/dead motor to premount new props will do the same if the prop hole depth doesn’t need to be lengthened.


OMG! This was the death of my first quad! It always crashed where the vacuum didn’t reach and picked up every wayward strand.


I was wondering about this with hot glue, definately a better option.


I’ve made whole brushed “stacks” w hotglue, so I say go for it😜
Same quad,btw: