I just crashed my BetaFPV build into a bush, And now the video has yellow fuzz all over it, Even from like 1 meter away. Any fixes? Or new camera. I have my eyes on the 1200TVL.
My first inclination is the antennae connection was damaged or the antenna itself was damaged. If it’s a dipole (single wire) look for damage or separation of solder joints where it connects to the Vtx. If it is a clover leaf check the solder joints as well as the joint where the wires meet at the top of the antenna.
Just had a look at that camera. It has the dipole so look for a broken solder joint. You may need to use magnification to accurately assess the solder joints. 10x jewelers loop works great for that. The way that all
In one AIO camera is built it looks like it could be suceptable to breaking solder joints between the Vtx and camera since they are 90 degrees offset from one another. So a good hit to the camera could cause damage to the connections between them. I don’t have one but I assume they used header pins to connect them and for the most part doesn’t seem like a good way to design an FPV cam to me.
@madman1412 Thank you again so much for replying so quick, I don’t see any damage in the solder joints and the cam is soldered to the vtx just fine. I just thought up something that the issue might be caused by, My eachine ev100s broke when I took them off to investigate the crash, I dropped them. So I got my old eachine vr007s, they seem perfectly fine, But the reiciever might be damaged. I am definitely not completely sure that’s the problem but there is a low chance it might be. And is it possible that my dipole antenna is just broken?
Update: I noticed the VTX is heating up quite a bit when I took off the canopy and left the battery in to see any other things that might be a bit off. Is it normal for the VTX in a AIO camera to heat up?
It might be worth replacing the vtx antenna. A damaged vtx antenna is a common cause of that issue.
Also make sure the channels are still set right, I’ve had crashes chance the video channel before.
@Bobnova, @madman1412 I’ll order some new antennas to see if it fixes the issue, It’s getting a bit worse now, I also se weird flashes of saturation that flash when I pull throttle up on a fresh battery, Couldn’t get it on photo though. Still wierd how hot the VTX is getting though…
This is how the feed looks 3 Meters away and behind 1 thin wall! 1546363530227641889122037049884|375x500
Update: This is almost how they look, I don’t know why this one happend
Wow, Now there are white opace lines when I apply throttle…
You know I’ve had almost this same problem and all I had to do to fix it was change the power wires that go from AIO cam to fc and re solder the joints from cam to vtx. Exact same issues. Saturation, fuzz, and the white lines. Installing new wires fixed it right up. I think there was a break in the wire internally, as when I tapped the camera, it sometimes worked. Hope you get it sorted out!
I accidentally ripped off a 1mm resistor from the vtx of my ef02 last night. Now it doesn’t send picture anymore, what I can see from my goggles is black and static even when I switched channels. The resistor is from the middle of the aio(tx side) and it’s impossible for me to solder it back because it’s 1. in the of aio, 2. its too light and small, 3. my helping hand can’t hold it while soldering. What should I do to make it send picture to my goggles?
@Skating_maker_fpv Thank you for the reply, But the camera uses pins instead of wires even on the attachment to FC, So nothing to resolder.
@FPV_Lover You should make a new thread for that, I would get a new VTX and solder it to the cam even if it’s AIO, Or just get a new cam(if it’s AIO). Really there is no fix.
Here’s some flight footage filmed on my professional cheap hubsan TX that I found in trash “DVR” , See if you can see what the problems are, The hallway is 2 meters long, And the wall between the hallway and living room is very thin.
People it’s getting much worse, When I pull throttle up there are extreme black lines…
Best thing to try I think would be power the camera seperately from the flight card. That will tell you right away if this is a filter issue or bad camera. If you get the same results with the camera powered separately, there is damage to the camera. If it clears up then you are getting noise from the FC power. They do make very small LC filters that can be soldered in line with power. That will add a little weight but would clear up the signal. Even a small electrolytic capacitor will help smooth the voltage out. Something around a 470uf should work for that and would be lighter than the LC filter.
Thank you for the reply, I will purchase some filters and resolder the power line to bat+.
I think I saw you are in Canada? Rmrc has them if you haven’t heard of them. Ready made RC
Yes I am in Canada, I heard of them but the closest store is 40m away, I live in Nova Scotia. I found a capacitor on Amazon will this work?
Yeah, that’s the exact one I used on a small brushless. Should only amount to about 1/2 gram I think.
Thanks for the info! I’ll order it right now.
Huh… I had the exact same problem. If you tap on the camera a couple of times while it’s saturated does it revert to normal for a bit? I had the exact same issues. Exact same symptoms on my z01, but mine was the wired version.