Wait. After attaching the external receiver, can you still flash the board like normal? Or do you need to remove the receiver?
You have to remove it. Careful what you post dogging the ZERO on IG while you ask one of its creators for help - that’s kind of bad form . You’ll soon find the beta lite is not a 10$ version of the ZERO, and I am rather thick skinned so still happy to help you.
The flashing pins are inaccessible when a camera mount is installed, it doesn’t have 2oz copper, it’s got wimpy traces feeding the motors, it doesn’t have a temperature compensated gyro (hope your vtx doesn’t get hot and throw it off), and there isn’t a sot23 mosfet that can touch the performance of what we’re using - it’s not the same package, hope your rx runs well on 2.8 volts - cause it doesn’t have a proper 3.3vreg or 5v buck boost.
But, if you prefer a project and would rather spend time than money, you’ll have some fun learning stuff. I’m not trying to sell you a zero, just trying help you understand the effort that was put into correcting critical flaws which save time and effort and get people in the air faster for a better experience.
No! I never meant to disrespect the zero. It’s a awesome board, and I 100% respect you and the other creators. Sorry! My writing came off a bit differently than I intended. I’m always just tight on money, and cheap stuff is always my go to, even when it’s bad quality. I never meant to disrespect the zero. Your work is truly phenomenal. The lite is just a quick fix for my drone addiction, it can’t beat the quality of the zero. I must admit however, while the high quality stuff like the alienwhoops and tinywhoops and others are really easy to get in the air, part of the fun for me is when stuff breaks fixing it and learning about it, and that often only happens with the cheap stuff.
I’m really sorry for the misunderstanding in my words. Never meant to come off as rude or ungrateful for your work. It is truly amazing and is a gift to the community. Personally, I don’t really care if I spend hours on a cheap product, as long as it flys in the end. I just wanted to understand these boards, never meant to diminish the zeros reputation and features.
And thanks for the clarification!
Don’t stress my man, your heart is in the right place
Exactly this is the reason I am where I am today - it’s a passion the process that really pushes things forward and uncovers learning opportunities. At the root of this for me just like you is an unmistakable driving force to find the cheapest possible way to do things. That’s both a good and a bad thing in my own eyes - and the zero for me was an exercise in breaking myself out of this mold. After decades in the rc hobby I have repeatedly sabotaged myself in the name of saving money almost every chance I could get. The end result of pushing through these events with the application of time and effort did indeed have a very positive outcome. I learned a TON and it made a project like the zero possible. Without making every mistake in the book, I would never have known how to do things the right way (cause I’m also stubborn and a poor listener to good advice). I needed to find it all out the hard way to really believe it.
I will always stand by you and support you and others just like us through that discovery process. It drives innovation and learning. I only directly said something because as the “tinkerers” who enjoy the discovery process - we often make bold statements about ways we can or intend to produce similar results by alternative methods - and that can easily lead those without a similar skill-set or mind set down the wrong path towards a frustrating experience. I try to be more mindful of that now as its so easy in our digital age for others to jump in and follow our lead who may not also enjoy learning things the hard way but also want to save a few bucks.
Here are a few ways I’ve sabotaged myself just last week that I publicly vow never to repeat and have caused any amount of effort to result in failures in the name of a few bucks:
- Cheap iron, solder, and Flux (I was really stubborn on this one)
- Knock off receivers (I failsafed 3 times yesterday on two different crafts)
- Putting old parts back in the air that didn’t work instead of in a designated “no fly - learning only” pile.
- Cheap carbon - frames cut wrong break too easily
- Cheap batteries/charging solutions (missed out on whooping an awesome empty park yesterday cause of this)
- Cheap 3d printer filament
- Poor lighting and magnification in my work space
- Cardboard box organization (so much time wasted looking for stuff)
My list of shame is much longer, but those are the first that come to mind.
All things you have listed and also a lot more, could be mine but i agree that all the mistakes i‘ve ever made have internalized my knowledge of the things.
This is sometimes the hard way but it‘s my way to make things work at final.
I‘m 100% with you @NotFastEnuf
Well, your not a expert until you’ve made all the mistakes you can make in a specific field!
First I’d like to say awesome work man. I love your firmware. Thank you. I was using the betafpv lite with multiprotocol but with the range issue i followed the instructions and added a frsky receiver to it and changed from bayang to sbus in the config. My problem is i get the receiver to bind but from there the fc just keeps flashing. Not sure what im doing wrong. Any ideas? Thanks
Maybe your rx is uninverted? You could try changing the inverted define to off in RX_SBUS
#define SBUS_INVERT 0
But most common is not having your transmitter set up properly. It needs to output AETR. This would be evident by a fast flash like a strobe. Not getting an rx signal is a slow flash.
I have had issues using the silverware NFE fork getting it to bind after flashing. (Not looking for that to be resolved, that’s a problem for another day) I went back to the original silverware hex from the betafpv webpage for the BETAFPV Lite FC. It flashed successfully, but now the leds flash slowly four times and pauses and then begins again flashing the leds 4 times and keeps repeating this sequence. Before it would at least enter bind mode, but not anymore. Did I brick this board? Thanks for your help in advance.
You can get the no receiver (3)/no gyro (4, like you have) LED flashes on startup if you flash the wrong firmware.
Where did you get that BetaFPV firmware you flashed back on? Can you link to the page?
I flashed that hex a couple of times when I was trying to get the board to work and it worked the first time I flashed the hex. I was able to bind and fly the quad.
I kept trying different NFE hexes that I compiled trying to get it to work. The last hex I tried is when the 4 flashes started. I went back to the original hex to see if that would resolve the issue and it didn’t.
Interesting. Someone with the Beecore Lite board (same BWHOOP target as the BETAFPV Lite) had the same 4 LED blinks recently:
The suggestion there was that the gyro connections might have gotten messed up somehow during soldering, etc.
I probably touched a pad on the gyro with the soldering iron. I solder st-link wires a bunch of times, so it wouldn’t surprise me that is a problem. Plus I had a hard crash. Oh well. I have another board , plus a Santa quad that I can try getting the NFE to work on. Thanks for your help.
If there is no visible signs of bridging on the pads it may likely be a faulty contact on the gyro. Good opportunity to learn since if it don’t work you got nothing to lose. If you have a hot air solder station you can try reflow or if not you can use some flux and a fine tip iron to drag solder the chips contacts.
I do have a new hot air soldering station. I will give that a shot. Thanks for the tip. I was looking over the pads last night, thinking it might be related to soldering, but I didn’t really see anything out of the ordinary.
I have fixed many a gyro issue with a simple reflow. Using a little no clean flux around the pads will help and once it is at reflow temp tap the chip ever so slightly and you’ll see the chip bounce a little just be careful To not push it out of alignment. Tapping the chip makes sure it is making contact with all pads. If that doesn’t work most of these use the same gyro which is about 5$ MPU6050 is the most common.
That is the same gyro on this board. I will try fixing it first. What’s a good temp for the hot air? Haven’t used that yet.
I typical run mine around 450F. Not all hot air units are accurate though. It typically should take about 45-60 seconds for a chip to start reflowing. If it takes longer or doesn’t start to reflow you can up the temperature a little till it is within that time frame and should be close enough. Using a thermocouple temperature gauge can get you even more accurate. Being as they use silver solder on cards that are manufactured, you may need to go up to 500F to get it to reflow. Temperature, nozzle size, distance from work and air flow setting all are conservations that effect the temperature of the air when it hits the item your working on. Last thing is if the reflow happens too fast the temp needs to go down.heating the PCB too quickly can cause thermal shock which is not good. Temperature too high can also damage components even though they should be good up to 600F