BetaFPV Beta65 Lite (Silverware FC)

Great info, @madman1412!

I’ve been meaning to pick up a hot air station for ages. So it’s bound to happen sooner or later. However, I would never have imagined that it would take almost a minute for the solder on a chip to start flowing. I’ll have to remember that when the time comes, lest I burn the heck out of the board I’m trying to repair. :relaxed:

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Hey Brainstorm, been away a bit but I’m trying to get back at it. That is one of the ways I determine if I have the heat right. When reflowing there is actually a 4 minute period where your supposed to preheat the PCB and components to around 310F part of that preheat once it gets up around 250F or so is called the soak time which for moisture sensitive devices in humid conditions helps dry everything out. After the soak the temp climbs to 440F to 490F for about 1 minute then begins the cool down period. That’s how it technically is supposed to work for leaded solder, silver solder takes a slightly higher temp and then there are special solders besides silver such as low temp flow solder wire for removing components using an iron that would otherwise not be doable. Long story short, most of the boards we are working on are small which reduces some of the chance of thermally shocking a board. The main issue with reflowing too quick and not having the temperature correct will mainly be bad solder joints.

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I tried to get it to reflow but no luck, still having flashing issue. I started at 450 and went up 600° a third time and pressed down on the module and still no improvement . Thanks again for the help.

Ok, got my board in the mail, put it on a boss frame, got the x-lite configured correctly (as far as I can tell) and I am having a few issues.

#1 Arm switch is not responding. It is armed at powerup.
#2 Despite having auto-bind checked, it needs to be bound each time
#3 At take off it goes into a death spin

#4 Tried to calibrate using the d.d.d stick commands and get this reaction

It will continue this blinking pattern until I reboot and I can not do anything else.
#4b I tried a suggestion (u.d.u.c) and it blinks but the death spin hasn’t gone away.

I am at a loss. Any ideas?

Down-up-down, wait, down-down-down should change the prop orientation and save it.
There’s another command for auto bind and then down-down-down to save that too. I don’t remember what that command is, I bet @notfastenuf does though.

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Up up up saves bind
Down up down switches props in/props out
Left left left turns LVC on/off
Down down down is save

There are other commands to tweak pids via gestures too but above are the basics

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Not remembering what LVC is.

Low voltage cutoff. It forces you to land at a certain critical pack voltage. It’s a real lipo saver when running practice laps inside. But you can disable it easily for gorilla whooping outside where you may not want to land just anywhere. In reality, it forces a landing only a few seconds before your packs collapse at my default settings… So it’s a pretty safe limit to have set just about anytime.

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This is frustrating.

Got the binding issue resolved, turned off auto bind on the TX

It is still spinning off at liftoff, doing the calibration leads to a few blinks of the LEDs, a pause then 8 blink pattern and will not stop until it’s powered down. I cannot find any references to the blink pattern anywhere.

In the code, 8 blinks is a hardware I2C error. I’ve never seen that one activate.

// the error codes indicate a failure that prevents normal operation
// led flash codes - the quad will not fly / bind if flashing a code
// 2 - low battery at powerup - if enabled by config.h “#define STOP_LOWBATTERY”
// 3 - radio chip not found
// 4 - Gyro not found - maybe i2c speed
// 5 - clock , intterrupts , systick , gcc bad code , bad memory access (code issues like bad pointers)- this should not come up
// 6 - loop time issue - if loop time exceeds 20mS
// 7 - i2c error - triggered by hardware i2c driver only
// 8 - i2c error main loop - triggered by hardware i2c driver only

Do you have BWHOOP defined as your target in config.h? That is the correct target for the Beta65 Lite FC.

Will this work for flashing firmware?
Also, I have a male plug that will work with this but it from a camera, so thin wires, will that matter if I solder it to the slink wires, or do I need thicker?

A plug like that is fine. And the wires to the st-link can be very thin - shouldn’t be a problem.

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I read somewhere that you want to keep the wires short, or did I misread that?

I don’t remember reading that anywhere, but I’ve used a 20cm set of jumper wires to my ST-Link without any problems.

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Hi @SinisterLefty, just check whether the blinking and binding symptoms that you are seeing also happen when you move your radio more that 2 metres away from your quad. Mine does the funny fast blink when my radio is too close to my quad.

In case you haven’t fixed your yaw issue yet, try uncommenting motor rotational inversion and moving your motors and props into a “props-in” arrangement. I’m not saying that props-out won’t work, but this is what I did to fix the same yaw issue.

Has anyone been successful using an XM receiver on this board? Does it work well powered off of the 3V rail? The FrSky documentation suggests a voltage range of 3.7-5V, so maybe it would be better to power directly off of vbat?


I didn’t get anything on the linking but when I swapped the motors to props out it flew and did so like a dream. Now I have Zer0 boards and had to go back to props out config.

I am still need to work on a new harness for flashing software, my first one seems to be faulty.

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Unfortunately it doesn’t work well no. This is because the 3v rail is actually 2.8v on most of these toy boards. So it’s gonna go in and out. Same thing on using vbat. It will work fine for a bit then your battery voltage will sag more and it will go in and out.

The reason the 3v rail is only 2.8v is sort of a hardware shortcut to lower the component count and cost. The proper way to build a board is to boost the unstable vbat to a stable 5v, then lower the stable 5v line to a stable 3.3v. This requires quite a few more parts.

Thanks for the info.

Was this post referring to the Full Speed Nano RX? Does that perform better on the 3V rail? Maybe adding a small 3.3V->5V buck-boost would help

Adding a buck boost is exactly the solution for stable voltage to power a receiver.