BetaFPV Beta65 Lite (Silverware FC)

This is frustrating.

Got the binding issue resolved, turned off auto bind on the TX

It is still spinning off at liftoff, doing the calibration leads to a few blinks of the LEDs, a pause then 8 blink pattern and will not stop until it’s powered down. I cannot find any references to the blink pattern anywhere.

In the code, 8 blinks is a hardware I2C error. I’ve never seen that one activate.

// the error codes indicate a failure that prevents normal operation
// led flash codes - the quad will not fly / bind if flashing a code
// 2 - low battery at powerup - if enabled by config.h “#define STOP_LOWBATTERY”
// 3 - radio chip not found
// 4 - Gyro not found - maybe i2c speed
// 5 - clock , intterrupts , systick , gcc bad code , bad memory access (code issues like bad pointers)- this should not come up
// 6 - loop time issue - if loop time exceeds 20mS
// 7 - i2c error - triggered by hardware i2c driver only
// 8 - i2c error main loop - triggered by hardware i2c driver only

https://github.com/NotFastEnuf/NFE_Silverware/blob/master/Silverware/src/hardware.h

Do you have BWHOOP defined as your target in config.h? That is the correct target for the Beta65 Lite FC.

Will this work for flashing firmware?
Also, I have a male plug that will work with this but it from a camera, so thin wires, will that matter if I solder it to the slink wires, or do I need thicker?

A plug like that is fine. And the wires to the st-link can be very thin - shouldn’t be a problem.

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I read somewhere that you want to keep the wires short, or did I misread that?

I don’t remember reading that anywhere, but I’ve used a 20cm set of jumper wires to my ST-Link without any problems.

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Hi @SinisterLefty, just check whether the blinking and binding symptoms that you are seeing also happen when you move your radio more that 2 metres away from your quad. Mine does the funny fast blink when my radio is too close to my quad.

In case you haven’t fixed your yaw issue yet, try uncommenting motor rotational inversion and moving your motors and props into a “props-in” arrangement. I’m not saying that props-out won’t work, but this is what I did to fix the same yaw issue.

Has anyone been successful using an XM receiver on this board? Does it work well powered off of the 3V rail? The FrSky documentation suggests a voltage range of 3.7-5V, so maybe it would be better to power directly off of vbat?

Thanks

I didn’t get anything on the linking but when I swapped the motors to props out it flew and did so like a dream. Now I have Zer0 boards and had to go back to props out config.

I am still need to work on a new harness for flashing software, my first one seems to be faulty.

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Unfortunately it doesn’t work well no. This is because the 3v rail is actually 2.8v on most of these toy boards. So it’s gonna go in and out. Same thing on using vbat. It will work fine for a bit then your battery voltage will sag more and it will go in and out.

The reason the 3v rail is only 2.8v is sort of a hardware shortcut to lower the component count and cost. The proper way to build a board is to boost the unstable vbat to a stable 5v, then lower the stable 5v line to a stable 3.3v. This requires quite a few more parts.

Thanks for the info.

Was this post referring to the Full Speed Nano RX? Does that perform better on the 3V rail? Maybe adding a small 3.3V->5V buck-boost would help

Adding a buck boost is exactly the solution for stable voltage to power a receiver.

Hi guys. I just got this lite fc. when I try do calibrate the accelerometer it’s just keep on flashing until i replug the battery.

r u able to figure put this calibratinf problem?

I didn’t unfortunately but I had made the error of having my motors set to props out. Once I switched it I had no need to calibrate it.

Then I ordered a few Zer0 boards and haven’t touched that board since.

hey man. did u managed to flash nfe?

Is it bound to the TX to begin with? Have you sorted the channels on the TX? Is it a fresh battery? Need a few more details

Good day man. everything is fine. its bound. new battery. using the stock toy grade tx. Someone posted above this same issue when trying to calibrate.

thanks

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Talking about the crystal on most silverware fc, I’m curious if it’s okay to reverse the connection. I might sound a bit lazy for not twisting it to solder beneath the bwhoop fc but it can help me to ease future mods related to this.

Yup, it’s not polarized, as long as one pin is connected to each pad or doesn’t care which one goes to which.

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