Beecore Lite Silverware FC


So Guys, to recap -

I should connect my Stlink using the pins on the bottom of the FC in order to program it like an E011?


you have to use the tiny pads near the center of the board ( on the bottom). The nice header like connector is a “trap” , it’s actually i2c breakout. What?


Has anybody used this board yet? I have one, but it seems to have bad reception. I wonder if I’m just unlucky…


@NotFastEnuf I have shorted the pin directly on the chip, didn’t check if there was a breakout for the bootpin, but it is very unlikely there is one.

The pins are labeled ‘correctly’ for i2c, there not just that useful without a bootpad breakout for serial applications. Flashing this cheap FC is not as simple as with other silverware fcs out there but i can be done.

@silver13 I have one in a boss 7, but had so far no issues with the range, i still need to test it with a longer range then 10-15m from the remote. Will do that this weekend and will report my findings here.

@chime13 Yes you have to use the pads on the bottom to flash it like a e011.


Mine is fine, but @Rhuumyn has issues after 20 meters. My telemetry is lost after 10 though. That has been waaayyy more on all silverware boards I have used the last 2,5 years


Yeah, they have 2 regulators, one separate for radio alone, I think maybe the capacitors are not sized correctly. Adding a large cap to my board seems to help


I just tried mine out in the open in a Boss 7 frame. I got a good 100m of range without losing control - as much as I’ve tried on my E011 and Beta65s Lite boards. The telemetry RSSI values are worse, though. It shows a max of 87-ish while my other two boards report 99 up close to the Tx. The Beecore telemetry RSSI numbers drop a lot lower, too, though I didn’t notice the telemetry cutting out any more than my other boards.


I’m curious - What size of cap did you use? And Where did you connect it?


I just used one out of the junk box, 1000uF, to see if it helps or it does nothing. it’s connected between the rx ic pin and ground at the i2c breakout.

Of course, a large cap like that would not be good to have permanently on there


Quick question … From a binary file with extension .hex, is it possible to go back to the parameters and the settings of the programming?


not really very easily, I guess you can get the pids by performing a calibration and using the pid app




Still looks the same to me.

Got a few of these and am actually pretty happy with them. Cheap source would be:


Hey silver, can you post a picture or tell the pin number of the RX IC to solder the capacitor to?


Hi guys, got my FC boards last friday, but i’m lost and not very comfortable about the flashing process. I know how to do it on regular board, but this one… i’m really uncomfortable whith it. Been searching on YouTube for some guidance, but didn’t find much help. Does someone have or made some vídeo step-by-step about flashing this board, and about some improvements that must be done to this board? Much apreciated for some help you guys may give me.


Sorry, I don’t have time to make a video right now, but the only difference between this board and any other is the pads to flash with. The pic I attached to Post #25 above clearly labels the pads to connect the ST-Link pins to.

I have not soldered anything to those pins. I just hold wires or probes touching three wires to those three pins while I flash the board (it does take a bit of a steady hand). It got easier when I realized the pin spacing was 2.54mm - just like normal jumper/servo pins. I taped the leads of three pins together and hold those against the three pads. I’m pretty good at it now :- )


I read that are two rows of pads, one on the top and another on the bottom. May you please post a picture with the pads you are using. Sorry for the trouble i’m giving you… but i’m a noob at this. It’s my thirth tiny whoop, but it’s my first whoop with this kind of FC.


Read post #25 to see the pads, it’ll be the underside pads


Do i need to power the board with the battery? Or just connect the 3 wires?


Power the board with a battery :slight_smile: