Banggood/Eachine SP Racing F3 EVO based Brushed FC Set-up Guide For Spektrum Sat Receivers

Hi guys,
I’ve always found @chrisdo’s Scisky set-up guide to be very helpful for initial set-up, so I thought I’d make a basic set-up guide for the new Banggood/Eachine Micro 32bits F3 flight controller based on the SP Racing F3 EVO for DSM2/X compatible satellite receivers.

** Prep the board by soldering on the main battery leads, satellite receiver connector, and motors. Refer to the pictures below.

  1. Open cleanflight and flash with the most recent stable version of the “SPRACINGF3EVO” hex file (1.13.0 at the time of this writing). If you accidentally flash another .hex file onto the board, and the board becomes unresponsive, don’t worry. You can always go back and short the bootloader to re-flash with the correct file. Power down the FC after completing.

  2. Power up the FC, and connect to Cleanflight.

  • “Set-up” tab -> calibrate accelerometer
  1. Go to the “Ports” tab.
  • UART3 row -> engage the “Serial Rx”.
  • Save.
  1. Go to the “Configurations” tab.
  • Mixer -> Quad X
  • Receiver Mode -> “Rx_Serial”.
  • Serial Receiver Provider -> choose “Spektrum 1024” for DSM2, or “Spektrum 2048” for DSMX
  • Set Motor Stop
  • Min Throttle = 1000, Mid Throttle = 1500, Max Throttle = 2000, Min Command = 1000
  • Save.
  1. Go to the “Receiver” Tab
  • Set TAER1234 and Save.
  • If you bound your rx previously, you can now confirm that all sticks & aux switches respond properly. If not, you can proceed normally, and we will re-visit this in step 10.
    ** You may need to reverse your Aileron and Rudder servos on your transmitter.
    *** You may also need to set the servo travel on the throttle channel to 125 on the low side to arm.
  1. Go to the “Modes” Tab
  • Set “ARM” to AUX1 if you wish to arm via switch.
  • Set Flights Modes (Optional). Acro/Rate mode is the default, so if you wish to use Angle and Horizon, you will need to set it now. I usually put the flight modes on AUX2, with a 3-position switch to have access to all 3 flight modes.
  1. Go to the “PIDs” Tab
  • Roll Rate -> 0.50 to start. Adjust higher for more sensitivity, lower for less sensitivity. (I use 0.65)
  • Pitch Rate -> 0.50 to start. Adjust higher for more sensitivity, lower for less sensitivity. (I use 0.65)
  • Yaw Rate -> 0.50 to start. Adjust higher for more sensitivity, lower for less sensitivity. (I use 0.75)
  • I found the stock multiwii re-write PIDs to be a fine place to start for an X frame. There’s a little oscillation when descending fast, so I will need to work it out.
  1. Go to the “CLI” Tab
  • Motor Jitter/Start up spinning -> Type: “set motor_pwm_rate=32000” enter.
  • For Satellite Binding -> Type: “set spektrum_sat_bind=5” for DSM2, or “set spektrum_sat_bind=9” for DSMX
  • Save.
  • Power down. *The next time you power up, the receiver will go into bind mode.
  1. Binding.
  • Go to a room that is away from any wireless routers, computers, or wireless phones.
  • Set up a new model on your Tx for this board.
  • Reverse the Aileron and Rudder servos.
  • Set the Throttle travel to 125 on the low side. Rudder Travel to 125 on both sides.
  • Turn off your Tx.
  • Power on the F3 Evo brushed board with your battery. The Satellite Rx should go into bind mode automatically. If not repeat the “Satellite Binding” part of Step 8.
  • Power up your Tx while holding the bind button. If all goes well, it should bind up with no problem. If not, repeat the “Satellite Binding” part of Step 8, and try again.
  1. Once you’re bound, you can connect to Cleanflight again and confirm that the receiver is working properly in the Receiver Tab. If everything is OK, then you are ready to disconnect and fly!

  2. Install the props. (“A” to the Red/Blue wired CW motors. “B” to the Black/White wired CCW motors).

  3. Arm and Fly

  • Connect main battery and confirm solid red light with flashing blue “activity” light.
  • If you set up the Arming via aux switch, then flip the switch to arm. The blue light should turn solid when armed.
  • If you did not set up arming via aux switch, then you can arm by dropping the Throttle to zero, and Yaw to full right. The blue light should turn solid when armed.
  • You’re now ready to fly.
15 Likes

Nice, I’m certain this will be very helpful for those using this one. A little off topic, but does anyone know what the F3 actually stands for? Is this just a new chip replacing STM32 or is the F3 in reference to another aspect of the board?

The F3 is in reference to the actual chip…The f1 is an stm32f103 the f3 is an stm32F303, it runs faster, and has more grunt, and floating point math rather than just integer…

The F4 cards on the scene are significantly more powerful again, and can handle much faster cycle times, and have more uarts you can get to.

check this link out, we use f1, f3, f4, and very soon f7.

http://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/products/microcontrollers/stm32-32-bit-arm-cortex-mcus.html?querycriteria=productId=SC1169

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Hi my name is Marc from the German Community i am very interested at this fc so thank you for the set up at the top :clap:. How does the fc fly? Are there difference between the scisky and the f3? I like the scisky but i need a new challenge.Sorry for my good english​:slight_smile:

Thanks for this! That was part of the puzzle that left…:slight_smile:

I have 3 of these fc´s and everyone is a little drifting to the right side. Not much but i am wondering if someone here has the same drift issue?

I was wondering, do you guys think it’s possible to take the +5V from the board to power the FPV gear? Like the FX758-2 and the 600tvl camera? Does anyone know if the regulator can handle it?

I think I found the 5V regulator, not sure what part it is though

This is from a review on the Banggood page:

“You can power your Video TX & Cam of the UART Port with 5V out, but max 500mah!!!”

  • FPVTechGermany (review on 08/25/2015)

Hopefully someone can confirm as I don’t really have a way to test it.

Hi @Marc,
The F3 Evo brushed controller flies great so far. It feels really nice with the stock PIDs, but it should be better after I play around with luxfloat a bit more.

The major differences between the scisky and the F3 are:

  • The F3 EVO does not have a built in receiver. The scisky has a built in DSM2 receiver.
  • The F3 EVO has an extra UART
  • F3 boards are faster when using luxfloat. I’m not very good at explaining this part since I don’t have the background, so I will link you to Oscar Liang’s blog on the topic.

https://oscarliang.com/f1-f3-f4-flight-controller/

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Unfortunately it seems its not the best to power fpv gear from those 5v uarts. In the rcgroups topić someone had power issues like a lot of noise in the camera, and somebody else had complete fc shut down. Time for a pololu it seems!

Ok perfekt :clap:thanks so i can use cleanflight for the pid tuning?

Sure you can

I just received one of these boards today. I tried hooking to CF and I get an error on my usb port. Says it can’t find a driver for the STM32 virtual com port. I downloaded the latest STM drivers from the link in CF. Still nothing. Should I jump the boot pins? I have no problem connecting to a Scisky but not sure if I need different drivers for the F3 chip.

Edit - I got it working. I keep my windows updates turned off and it wouldn’t automatically locate a driver. Driver is loaded and I can connect.

Glad you were able it figure it out so fast!

Awesome info but which pads do I need to short for the bootloader

I took myself this FC, I managed to fly it configured to 2s, connected to the AIO ef-01 did not give noise disturbances. Unfortunately on the first crash the gyroscope stopped working. Just happened to me?

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Mine also sometimes seems to not work, I just connect it to the configurator and press the connect/disconnect button until it works against. I know how stupid this sounds :smiley:

Mine after first crash don’t fly. I think it’s broken.

:tired_face: Sorry to hear that IKKI.