So the latest version of Java JRE is here Version 8 Update 101
still no joy, although when i downloaded from your link above, it said i had outdated java files? im not sure what java i downloaded this morning
i messaged you on fb, i think. i dont use fb, just joined for the aw fc group when it was announced here
OK, so after taking up very valuable resources from @pedro147, we ( HE ) has guided me into the multiwii gui!!
i can build stuff, but computers are not my strong suite. the main issue i was having was i was trying to run the gui using the 32bit file. after learning (windows 10) that this pc runs 64bit, the gui opened. i had to close it down and reopen it so it could see my com port, but it worked!
one insane parrot comming up!
Glad that I could help @Kamsleo69 and also that it was a relatively easy fix.
Makes a nice change
Apologies my ignorance!
I posted this here a while ago:
Added it to the top post!
A little mile stone for this Alien species:
We have now produced 250 FCs from the 500 PCBs we made initially, and are now starting to make the next 250. After that, we will need to make new boards, so there is a chance for change. Its not getting significantly cheaper when making a few thousand, so we can just keep making small batches like this to keep things flexible.
We plan to slightly change the board design, to reverse the polarity of the 5V-out connector without interfering with other components, and replace the power LED with a red one, to make it more obvious what LED is active. Anything but blue LEDs require an extra resistor.
It needs more space. We plan to straighten the motor plugs (instead of the 45˚ connectors) to make that space.
Any objections? Or additional suggestions what we could/should change at this stage?
Now is a good time to speak
I beg to differ. White? Purple? There’s quite some cool options ;). I assume there is 3.3V available - right?
While you are changing stuff around the motor mounts - are you considering what the multiFlite pico fc did with the connectors angled to the sides? That saves quite some height on the FC and the motor sockets are a bit more accessible.
Powering VTX from FC 5v out I’m getting noise (horizontal black lines) on my video feeds.
Don’t know anyone else’s opinion but maybe you can make space from removing the voltage regulator and having a simple voltage out plug since I’m running a Pololu anyway.
Also toss in a logo. IDK the implications but I wouldn’t mind an MMW or Alien logo printed on the back.
Second this suggestion! Even if we double tape/hot glue it. I’ll know it’s there.
@las I agree that there are some great colour choices available, but blue is the only one that will run on 3.3v without requiring a current limiting resistor. All the other colours require a resistor of between 75 -150Ω AFAIK.
To check just use an online LED calculator for 3.3v and any LED specs that you think would be good to use, and I sure that you will see that this is the case
I still beg to differ. Pick a random parts distributor website… go for 0603 LEDs @ 3.3V and you will at least also find some white LEDs. Pink/Purple LEDs are still rather rare to find but I have some which are spec’ed for IIRC 3.3-3.5 which are super bright (and work well on my Alien F3 quad FC). White LEDs are pretty close to UV/blue LEDs anyways (See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode#White_LEDs_and_the_Illumination_breakthrough ). The purple LEDs I have use the same technolgy.
Sure - for mass production you maybe shouldn’t pick some random LED (e.g. you want at least some proper datasheet) - so blue might be the “safe” option for the “mass” market here.
Sidenote: Online LED calculators are most of the time not for specific parts, datasheets are.
@Las I take your point and like I have told you guys before - do not believe anything I say
Good work and some good tips there as usual
Agreed, something like this. http://www.digikey.com.au/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=208328092&uq=636115112008162642
I have ordered a few for myself and will be using them on my own builds.
Unfortunately that link doesn’t work for me.
I meant something like this (THT):
or this (SMD):
I am trying to troubleshoot my alien parrot, and am having some gui? issues. I previously had completed the bind and set up process and could see everything working properly in the gui. I was interrupted, and disconnected FC from cable without clicking write to save changes and did not close comm before disconnecting FC.
When I returned and plugged in battery I have no communication between tx and FC. I plugged in USB, opened arduino, opened gui, and see no tx inputs. Where I had previously. Even the PID settings and mode settings I changed and saved and clicked write were gone.
“If you are having trouble with your flight controller, and you are sure that you are following the above instructions, try clearing the EEPROM and flashing the sketch again - madman’s very helpful instruction https://vimeo.com/17355452514 and https://vimeo.com/1411719527
The default sketch can be downloaded here: ALIENFLIGHT-BUZZ.zip11 (160.4 KB)”
Should I try to clear eeprom, etc? I’ve not done this yet, as it is brand new and was planning on using the sketch it came with.
Excellent idea to turn that 5v plug to match polarity with motors. I ignored how they were supposed to be installed on my builds for the specific reason that it would be less confusing and if you want just cut off the wires and plug from a burnt motor as the pigtail. Not like we have a lot of burnt motors or anything to use as the sacrificial lamb (that’s sarcasm)
Hey @las, I just ordered some of the RA 1.25mm plugs about 2 weeks ago for that very reason. If you have a FPV plate or bonnet on the build it makes sense to have the right angle plugs vs upright ones for two reasons. 1 they can be unplugged without disassembling the FC and two they are not being constricted under the top plate. Example is the wasp 110mm from the now defunct SOSx which I really like but the top plate would sit right on top of the sockets sort of negating the dampening bushings that are supposed to absorb the excess vibrations for eliminating the jello effect in the video.
Hey @Kamsleo69, It sounds like you may need to clear the eeprom but before that I would look at what the FC is showing up as when it is plugged into the computer. Are you using a MAC or Windows machine? If you look in devices and do not see “Arduino Leonardo” listed there and it says something like generic storage device or USB device then the FC may have lost its driver. This happens when a card that has issues is plugged in sometimes on a windows PC and also can happen from unplugging a card without stopping the communication and closing the com port. If the card is recognized and connects to your computer as the Leonardo Arduino, trying the eeprom clear and reflashing the sketch may fix this issue.