7mm Whoop batteries


#1

Now that the weather is cold for me, I’m back on my brushed stuff. I just swapped motors into my 6mm whoops, and I built a 7mm.

BetaFpv 65mm frame
Beecore V2 FC - OSD turned off
MMW - 7x16 motors
BetaFPV 3 blade props
VTX03 + cam
Dry - 28g
260mah Crazypony - not charged to HV
380mah Tattu

With the CP batteries, its 33g. With the Tattu, its just under 40g.

I’m getting about 2 min of flight time on each. Definitely feels heavier with the bigger battery. My 6mm ones get about 3 min, which is what I was hoping to get. I don’t have a 1s HV capable charger but will be looking into getting set up for it. I know that will add a bit to the flight time. What batteries are you guys using?


#2

Eachine 260mAh stock, and eachine 260 45c here. 2 to 3 minutes depending on what I’m up to.
The extra weight of the vtx03 will put a dent in flight time.


#3

I have a TX03 also… Maybe I’ll put that on and try. I’m also running a 5v voltage reg for the fpv… I’ve got the TX03 set to 25mw to conserve…


#4

Can I replace the CL antenna on the TX03 with a dipole? I swapped the camera system, but I would like a smaller antenna. I saw a post regarding possible overheating, but never saw a conclusion.


#5

I did over a month ago and it still works fine


#6

OK… Thanks. I was taking a run this afternoon… all the sudden the video went black. Still had signal, just no video. When I squeeze in a certain spot, the video comes on. I tried resoldering the header pins, but same thing. Before I reach out to BG figured I’d ask if this is a common problem? There is a chip to the lower right of the lens that looks damaged and its in the area where I squeeze to make the video work…


#7

Looks like an inductor. I don’t have the same camera myself to verify. It’s cold solder joint or cracked joint may only be accessible from between the boards? Bummer. Fixable it seems but alot of work. You could always give it a "@Bobnova " - which usually means landing on a roof but in this context means blasting it with a heat gun till the antenna falls off on its own like a pop up timer in a thanksgiving turkey indicating it’s done.


#8

Heat-gunning that would melt the lens mount - AMHIK.


#9

You’re right. That was terrible advice. (Ashamed)


#10

Just hot glue it back on


#11

I’m kinda bummed and happy. I took the quad apart and removed my original VTX-03 and remote camera to install this one. I didn’t have a weight difference between this camera and the original setup. I flew it los in the basement to see if there was any battery difference and there was none - 2 min and it dropped from the sky. I sent BG a msg, so hopefully get it replaced. Then I’ll play around with it. I’d be afraid of a heat gun as well with the camera mount so close. Looks like they put an epoxy coating on it as well.

Back to the bench to put the original one back on.


#12

I have worked on the cam boards with hot air and not affected the lens…gotta use the fine nozzle low flow and do it in one go with out stuffing about. But your right, there is a risk and care needs to be taken.

In my experience aio/vtx almost always die from broken inductors. Occasionally the vreg circuit cooks (most of the newer ones seem to handle a deliberate RP which is nice), or there are parts missing or broken around the outer edges. Sometimes the rt6705 needs reflow too.


#13

tattu 220 mah 3.7v , also can be charged to 4.35v(HV), JST 2.0 Plug


#14

Those tattus with 266.546 C-rating for at least 654.5 millisecs, right?

Somehow i think of fire-crackers right now…

So happy new year everyone :joy::rofl::sweat_smile:


#15

HV batts don’t actually give you longer flight times. It sounds like it would, more voltage equals more flying time, but its not really how they work. You will experience a faster whoop for sure, but where a standard lipo can go from 4.2 to 3.2v and be flying the whole time, on a HV lipo when you get to about 3.6v the discharge curve falls off a cliff and the whoop just runs flat. This is also true on HV batts for larger quads too.

That has been my experience with them anyways. Hopefully this will save you some grief instead of finding out for yourself after buying a bunch of batteries. I will say though, that the speed increase you see from the HV batts is totally worth it. So as long as that is what you are after, go for it!


#16

Well @RotorGrrl, that maybe true, but if you have a HV and are not charging it to 4.35v, it will not have the capacity it claims…
Which is 1 of 2 main things going against you @bubbak. The other is that vtx being 2 or 3g heavier than it needs to be, making the motors work harder constantly.

I have some Crazepony 230mah HV that are almost a year old. I like them alot but 5 of 6 are at at least a little puffy. They make me nervous but they still work. I too used them for many months without HV.
I just ripped around for 4 minutes on my old betafpv 65s with a Turnigy nano-tech 300mah 35c non-HV, bat. V is resting at 3.7 after flight. It surprisingly felt just as punchy as my old HVs despite being 1.5g heavier. I didn’t notice punch softening until about 3:45, still capable of acro flips indoor with extra weight :grinning:



When I say “old” I mean with external dsmx receiver😥 (.7g w/o wires, dry quad is 25.98g)


#17

I use around the 250mah size. CrazyPony, Bolderdash, BetaFPV, all HV 'Of course they give you longer flight times RotorGrrl. More voltage=longer flight. Tell me how that equation is incorrect?'
I was tempted by some of the newer 450mah HV release from Eachine and the 550mah Gaoneng 3.8v, though longer flight times over performance, I choose performance every time.
One thing I did notice is I had been using a dozen batteries for a good few months, all were holding a good charge and giving the same flight times as from new pretty much. So the pleasant surprise I got, when I finally charged up four of the same batteries I had on backup for the first time and was getting nigh on double speed in punch outs.


#18

I swear by the mylipo.de / Tiny Whoop 255mah HVs. Compared to the stock E011 batteries, they are way punchier and have about the same flight time. So worth the price! As for a charger, I reccomend the EV-Peak E6 which does both LiPo and LiHv on 4 ports. It’s great for charging in a hurry. Also I noticed you have some rubber bands holding the vtx, I prefer double sided tape for looks and weight (though it’s totally your choice :smile: ). Those wires also look quite long.
Sorry if I seem like a walking banner ad, but I’m just saying what works in my experience.


#19

The mylipo are always good cells. Don’t feel bad for telling the truth.


#20

I can’t remember if I found the charger I use on eBay or Banggood, the one on beta FPV looks almost identical…

In my experience @RotorGrrl is correct about HV. When lipos run out of juice they sort of drop off a cliff voltage wise. With HV batteries that cliff is sharper and happens at a slightly higher voltage than standard lipos.