Micro Motor Community

3d printer bed material


Guys … anyone thought of/tried printing on to formika - the adhesive backed counter top laminate that is commonly applied to mdf?

Looks like free 5x7" samples are abundant on the Web. I just ordered 4 different textured finishes to try it out. Spec sheet says it can be bent to conform to shape with heat and softens at 163 degrees Celsius. We stay well below that for printing bed temps and the nozzle extrusion may be just hot enough to soften it locally for a good grip. Hmmm


Not yet, @NotFastEnuf, nor tape …
PLA, TPE, sure more the rookie here, but i love my glass plate. Nearly no cleaning, no waste material. Take care of THE gap between nozzle and plate. #1 layer good, then - “ripple three” - fire and forget.


I’ve got an old fish tank in the shed that needs to go away. I’ll go cut some glass slabs out of it. I’m just curious if formika will work. Good results have been reported using drelin, pcb board, and other re-purposed surfaces. I’d like to see of we can add one more to the list.


I see. Seen several Youtubes with different approaches. Curious too, what your results will be!
+can confirm good results on pcb, but will wear out due to cleaning.


Im using perfboard, this here: (not the flex stick on stuff, but the bare metal perfboard)

Its very easy to adjust the bottom layer adherence with the nozzle height.
Configure correctly, parts hold very secure during print, but they pop off very easy.
Small items, I can take off by hand. Medium items, a little help with a knife.
Larger items, take the board out and bend it.
Very happy with this print surface, using this for a few years now.
So happy though that I have very little to compare it to :wink:


Be careful travis, I believe you need heat resistant glass. Normal glass could explode because of the changes in temperature. Just a heads up :sweat_smile:


But explosions are cool right?

Good call, use a sheet of tempered heat resistant glass. Even though its usually rapid temp changes that cause glass to fail.


Agreed… there are quite a few anecdotal reports of standard glass surviving the heating and cooling process… I think the real risk comes from removing parts and the tendency/ possibility for the surface to chip out slivers with the part on removal. The fish tank I was going to scavenge from was all tempered anyway when I inspected it. No way to cut that stuff down to size.


I have scars on my hand from a shattering glass “implement” in my youth by pouring near boiled water in after flushing said thing with cold water mid winter…


Ouch. I myself had a bad run in with a window in my youth too. Took my right hand off right at the wrist joint. It was hanging only by a flap of skin. After a few surgeries to reconnect my tendons and nerves… I had to create my own rehabilitation device since nothing existed that was as advanced as I needed. Fortunately the thermoplastics lab was available for me to use their resources and assisted with the functioning hands of the staff to assemble the active splint I designed and I regained close to 85% of my mobility. That was sort of a record at the time. It was a simple device to re stretch everything and force movement in the directions that a wrist is supposed to move. A splint on the arm with a guitar tuner mounted which tensioned fishing line through a fulcrum to a cuff on my hand. That way I could increase tension myself throughout the day and swap it to both sides. I could see pretty quickly that two 1 hour sessions of physical therapy wasn’t gonna make my hand move again. It was locked up solid to start.

Yeah so… glass scares me


Ouch. I had a nasty run in with a box cutter blade and my hand when I was thirteen. Sever3d the nerves for my thumb. Fun times right? Anyways, use borosilicate glass for bed material. I also couldn’t help myself and picked up a second printer at GB that was on a screamin deal for Black Friday. On to more filament!