Micro Motor Community

3d printed Frames


#121

Hey guys, there are a lot of nice frames here.

I have a few for sale on my website, however I am willing to share the .STL for testing purposes and to help others with design ideas. I mainly use nylon to print my frames and they are all between 4 to 9 grams and extremely durable.

If anyone is interested in getting a hold of some files to test them out, please message me.

The majority of my 3d prints have dihedral motor mounts which increases agility and efficiency.

My site is EFAWdrones.com for anyone wanting to have a look at the designs.

I am quite skilled at frame design, so if anyone has ideas regarding a frame they want designed, throw them around and we will see if we can get it made inline with your ideas.


#122

That looks sweet


#123

@TomHaus generously sent me some of his frames for testing.
Like it so far.
Well done mate and a big THANK YOU!

Here it is. Around 42g without battery. 57g with battery.


Yeah, I wrecked some props.

2 vids of indoor fpving that thing. https://www.dropbox.com/s/kq0muhny4rq7z26/TH%20frame%20fpv.mov?dl=0
http://youtu.be/C99Xc9XhaJs
Nothing spectacular, just to get an impression.

Fellas out there keep going printing frames!
:metal:DIY rocks​:metal:


#124

Thanks for your inputs! Enjoy flying :slight_smile:


#125

Here a little bit of los flying with your Room Racer Frame…


At the end a Prop went off like. Thanks for the files!

@chrisdo do the motors fit without additional rubber bands or some other stuff?


#126

Yep. Not that easy to move them by hand.
Fit could be a little tighter, but think it’s ok so far.
Just had a crash today where one popped out of the mount. But luckily no damage or ripped wires.
Time will tell.


#127

Cool frame @chrisdo the material looks very good and strong on that frame. I have some motor mounts with similar looking and its strong and a
little bit flexible


#128

Quite a rocket you got there without a cam and the top plate!


#129

Update concerning motor mounts:
Practiced some acro indoor fpving today. Did crash more often and harder than usually. The motors have a tendency to pop out of the mounts on hard impacts. Luckily no ripped off wires or damaged motors :metal:.
To better secure them I inserted some rubber bands through the mounts and pushed the motors back in. Think/hope that’ll help to give them a tighter fit.


Will report back after some further testing.


#130

I think that happens when the motors get hot - the PLA gets weak. Should print it in ABS, but my printer-heatbed needs about an hour to reach the needed temperature :stuck_out_tongue:

Gotta get a 24V power supply!


#131

Is your bed insulated underneath?


#132

Yes it is.


#133

Ok, then I’m definitely looking into a better PSU for my printer when it arrives. The experienced printer owners in the group I follow have said good things about the PSUs made by this guy. http://www.lipoconnectionsolutions.com


#134

@TomHaus
Finally managed to break it.
Indoor acro FPV practice. Crash wasn’t that hard.


#135

I also broke one of my frames on the same position. It wasn’t even close the hardest crash i have had before! So i think it depnds on the angle of crashing. I thought about either adding another brace between the center and the motormount, or thicken the whole base. But both would of course raise the weight. As i didn’t think about designing a product to sell, i tried to find a reasonable ratio between weight and stability. Everybody who owns a printer can reproduce the frame with a minimum of costs and time…

But of course it would be nice if it would be stronger. As soon as i got my printer to make proper ABS prints i’ll give that a try. It should give at least be a little bit more stability…

In my case this glue fixed it very well: http://www.amazon.de/Loctite-401-5g-Sekundenkleber-5G/dp/B0000WRNV2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463578486&sr=8-4&keywords=superkleber+kunststoff


#136

ABS will be stronger for sure. Nylon would be the best option :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:.

I put some epoxy around the crack. Time will tell if this is a good fix. I doubt it.
Also ordered some of that glue which hardens with uv light.


#137

Really? Mine hardens without UV and it glues like Hell - at least PLA and a lot of other plastics - but also skin! I would even call it a really dangerous glue :stuck_out_tongue:

And sure: Nylon would be the best. But i’m very far away of printing this material at the moment. I have to build an enclosure for my printer one day, and as i said i need a stronger power supply.


#138

Why not use a ATX PSU ?! With some minor skills it’s easy to prepare them for use with your 3D printer.
I have prepared one last week in a few hours coz i’m awaiting a headbed in the next time and have an old one lying around .

Its a lowcost Solution and works very well for me.

Got today a Test Strip of Nylon 910 Alloy, cant wait to Test it. :grin:


#139

Update:
Epoxy didn’t do the job. One minor crash and it was broken again.

Now I used some kind of self adhesive gauze bandage (selbstklebende Mullbinde) and soaked it with CA glue.
Looking forward if this will be a more durable fix.


#140

@chrisdo

Time to change your pink rubber band, looks like it´s quite porous :joy::wink:

Hope this will keep things in place!