Micro Motor Community

3d printed Frames


Sounds like a better idea! Another way would be keyed tracks so the top slides in, or a combination of locating slots and rubber bands.


Very nice ideas guys. Keep them coming in.


I just recently broke my brand new PFG hex frame in a silly accident. Bumped my throttle stick while taking goggles off and then when I realized the hex was flying straight up, I killed the throttle and broke one arm clean off when it fell to the ground. So, the expense of replacing it is making me look seriously into 3d printing.

I’ve been reading about a printer called the Tevo Tarantula, which is getting attention for being really cheap at US$289 but can print at a good resolution and has a 20cm x 20cm print bed.

What else should I take into consideration?


@paul How did you made the pattern in the arms? I’ve designed a copter and would like to make the arms stronger.


One of the thingiverse frames i recommend to test is this one. It is not from me…

But after several crashes with some tree…

I decided to use the base frame doubled. It is about 2-4g more then the provided standard top plate. But i like it a lot. A special with Benedikt´s -15 Motors!

Next step will be a test with fpv attached to this.
For now this is my favorite frame for los.


Got one printing now:

I didn’t notice this thread until after I posted this:


i just extruded the whole frame as a solid and then drew triangles on the front and extruded through. After that i imported to meshmixer and did a ‘create pattern’ with dual edges checked.


This is my first attempt of designing a frame. I gotta say, that i have no experience with all that so far. I also just started to 3D print 2 months…


That’s a great looking design @TomHaus . What’s the auw?


Thanks @Undercoverzombie :slight_smile: For sure it depends of the components (FC etc.) you use. In my case i use a Beef’s Brushed Board which is quite heavy (ink. motor plugs & Micro FrX receiver), 8mm motors and Graphene 600mah battery. So it’s pretty heavy with 61,9g but still nice to fly…
The frame itself weights 12g (ink. m3 nylon spacers)


@jayodas I bought this printer, but with a bigger bed here: http://de.aliexpress.com/item/200-280-200-Large-MK3-auto-leveling-Aluminium-Extrusion-3D-Printer-kit-printer-3d-2-Rolls/32597036180.html

When you look down to the end of this thread, you can see what i printed with it. I must say that i’m very new too 3D printing and my prints are not even close to the quality this machine is able to print. A friend of mine founded a awesome FB Group for TEVO Tarantula i3 owners. I think the group has more than 1000 Members by now. Maybe you should have a look at it. There are some guys who really push this machine to the limit!


@tomhaus I think the bigger print bed is a good upgrade too. What thickness did you print your frame at? And can you go thinner to save weight? If it breaks in a crash, just print another one.


@jayodas I already printed it with an infill of 20%. So i wouldn’t go less. But i could save some weight with the other components. With a scisky and no motor pins you could come on about 57g.


@TomHaus I’m designing a hex frame now. How many mm thick do you recommend I use for my bottom plate assuming I will print it at 20% infill? Thanks.


I made mine 2mm. The top plate i made 1mm


Would you do one with 4 to 6 degree angle for the arms or motor mounts?


That shouldn’t be too hard I’ll give it a go tonight, is there an optimal angle for speed? Ive never flown angled motors, so I don’t know much about it.


Honestly I am not sure but using a toy Dromida Kodo and bending the arms up seem to give better response oppose to the arms being straight. Will try both of your versions. What will the cost be?


Up swept arms should in theory increase stability and response in maneuvers at expense of top speed and total lift. You lose efficiency.


Thanks. Speed is not an issue. Efficiency is but I seem to control these little ones better with some angle.