Micro Motor Community

3d printed Frames


Did you get bored testing it? LOL, must be pretty rad to buzz around for 30 min.


Very bored… I couldn’t feel my thumbs after half an hour either. But yeah flying for a long time is good, it is pretty relaxing.


Yeah that 52 minute video of the hover had to have been interesting to make lol. I am actually really interested in seeing more of this quad, the idea of being able to buzz around for 20 minutes with minimal noise sounds awesome. About what percent throttle is the hover point on this thing? Is it around 50% or is hover up in the 60-70% range? I might have to make one of these in the future.


When the battery is fresh I would say 40%, but after 20 minutes you’d be up around 65-70%. PIDs seem to make a huge difference on this thing, to begin with I was running clean flight and it was gutless but with beta flight it’s got heaps of go. I can’t figure out why. I know very little about coding so i could be missing something that would make it fly faster/longer. I’m just happy I got it to work, it’s my first quad.


@paul, this is a really awesome build. Everyone of us wishes for more flight time, especially when flying FPV. And this being your first quad shows that your midichlorian count is way off the charts! I noticed you said the thrust is 160g. Which Li-Ion battery could be used that fits the honeycomb frame and would keep the AUW as close to 80g as possible to achieve a 2:1 thrust to weight ratio?


@paul , What the What??? No additional regulator hooked to the Scisky for the Samsung Lithium Ions??

Time to dust off my gear driven quads!


, the 160g I mentioned is using the huge LGMJ1, which is only a 10A cell. With the 30Q i measured it at around 180g due to the higher discharge current. Currently the lightest OEM cell I can find is this: https://batterybro.com/collections/all/products/samsung-inr18650-25r5?variant=3281103619

At 43.6g it would put the AUW at 91-92g. Thrust would be similar. The only other option would be to wire two 750 nanotechs in parallel to achieve a 36g power pack, AUW about 84g but you would be sacrificing 1000mah of capacity in doing so. Flight times would be interesting.

If you’re interested in reading into 18650’s this is a good place to start:


And no I didn’t use anything, just used a ‘protected’ type cell which has discharge/charge regulator and temp sensors built in. Almost all cells are available as a protected type for a dollar or so extra. eBay has heaps of them for e-cig vapers.


Datapoint: 1100mah mylipo 25-50c battery is 29g.


a pic of the printed frame from shapeways.


This is the frame I’m working on. It uses the top plate from Punkkills on Thingiverse. My goal is strength! Right now it’s about 5g heavier than I want it to be, but it is tough as nails. I’m going to try changing it from a 150 to closer to a 100. Once it’s just right I’ll share it on Thingiverse.

One weakness I see in most other designs is sharp angles on narrow parts. That’s exactly where it will break. Always make things rounded and wide where you can.


Had a play around with some new software today, this is what my computer thinks is strongest.


What is the estimated weight on it?


It says 11.3cm3 so about 10g, it needs work.


It seams it kind of has two decks. It would be nice if those were separated enough to put a FC or battery between them. Just throwing out ideas.


I’m planning to build a microquad with a 3D-printed frame, what software do you use? Currently I use 123D-Design from Autodesk, but it reaches limits, so I’m looking for something new.


Yeah I’ve been trying to think up a way of keeping it accessible while having two decks, I might have another go at it today. I’m using Inventor and Meshmixer to get this shape. edit: something like this, same weight


That thing looks interesting.
But it’ll be hard to mount stuff in between when there’s no possibility to take the top plate off.


true, it would be cool to make it with a bonnet style top plate, with printed hinges and clips. it would take a while to draw up but not very hard to do.


Canopy/top plate could easily be secured with rubber bands. if there are some nipples ( sorry, don’t know how to express it properly in English) to clip into center frame and some nipples on the outside of canopy the hold the rubber bands.