I had an epic crash yesterday and blew my frame to pieces. I designed a new one last night that is printing now. I moved away from the traditional skeletal, cross-braced design and I’m trying an enclosed frame printed almost hollow to save weight. I’ll post as soon as it’s built.
First up is a frame from thingiverse (available here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:717375) I would recommend this, especially if you want a micro set up like a tiny 250. It is durable and has lots of room.
It may not be the lightest, but it’s not nearly as heavy as it looks, I printed it with 3 shells and only 15% infil. I took my inspiration for the front arms from bird bones; smooth hollow shapes.
I’m a designer by profession, so I’m just getting started with designing quad frames. I have a “Drone Design Inspiration” Pinterest board where I gather multicopter and aircraft designs I like. check it out here: http://pin.it/hLb8WVE
And here it is! With a fresh set on MMW Darks too. It’s flying like a champ, and best of all for indoor FPV it seems to almost always land right-side-up.
It’s specifically designed to fit a Beef’s and a Spektrum FPV cam. I’m interested in everyone’s feedback, I’ll eventually be putting some designs up on Thingiverse.
Looking Sleek! Only thing I would worry about is breaking those back arms. I’d put some diagonal supports across those 2 arms to give them increased support. I always enjoy a quad that lands right way up!
Agreed. I also want to incorporate a way to hide the cords on the back arms, right now it’s just that orange electrical tape.
Great job! That looks awesome!
I didn’t even think about that being the reason for the orange tape. I thought it was a fashion statement . Its still early for me…
Great choice of colors
very nice frame
I should also mention It’s printed in glow in the dark plastic : )
The rubber band I used for the battery is a slice of bike inner-tube. I picked this trick up for backpacking gear. They last way longer (and look better) than regular rubber bands. Backpackers and peppers call them “Ranger bands” and I would recommend making some the next time you get a flat, cut some thick and some thin and you’ll find a million uses for them.
It’s amazing how your camera and clover antenna survived the crash that broke both front arms!
That’s the coolest looking frame I’ve seen yet @Helios.
It makes me want to buy a 3d printer!
What’s the weight of just the frame & the 4 black screws?
Do the holes that the screws go into in the bottom frame have threads or are they just plain holes?
What’s that clear bottom cap you put on the rear motors?
The camera didn’t exactly survive… there was some serious damage to the lens, but I pulled a replacement off a broken one. The “roll cage” zip tie has worked very well to protect the antenna.
I don’t have an accurate enough scale to weigh it, but I’ll try to get that info soon. (anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap gram scale?) The holes go all the way to the bottom, but I’m only using 6mm screws. This saves weight and gives me the option to screw in accessories like a camera mount from the bottom. The holes are printed unthreaded, but slightly smaller than the M3 screws so the first time you put them in they self tap.
Motor cap is heat-shrink tube.
You called it! first thing to go after some abusive indoor FPVing. V2 is on the way, I have kind of a Dieselpunk thing in mind. I think I’m going to give it a tail…
I have this weighing scale. I chose it because it measures to 0.1g and can weigh up to 2000g so it will still serve me if I ever get into brushless 250s.
I use this one. Amazon prime. If you fly 250s and can wait for the slow boat from China, I’d probably get the one @jayodas posted.
Has anyone here looked into 3D printing with Nylon? My limited research leads me to believe this is the best material to print micro quad frames in because of how strong yet light it is.
Nylon has a high tensile strength and a moderate amount of elasticity, so it can absorb a lot of energy from impacts without failing.
Poly Carbonate has even higher tensile strength, but has almost no elasticity, so it doesn’t deal with impacts as well and it can fracture like glass when it does fail.
And here’s another promising material called PETG.
Nylon can yield awesome results. Light and strong, as you say.
It’s not as stiff as ABS, which is less stiff than PLA.
It can be a challenge to print. Nylon printing is a hobby in itself…
I have given up on it and print my parts with high-impact ABS. That prints very reliable at 255C, is not hygroscopic, does not stink and has very little warp tendency. Perfect to make prototypes at home, quick and easy.
If I have a design nailed down and want an extra light/strong part, I order laser sintered nylon prints from a local company.
Anything coming off a simple 3 axis extrusion printer will have far weaker structural properties than material properties as a result of the manufacturing method. You can probably get just as far trying to improve print quality as you can by using different materials. Lithographic nylon parts on the other hand are some of the highest quality prints you’ll find.