2S battery advice for my first brushless mini

Banggood’s motor sale made me pull the trigger on something I’ve wanted for a while. I’m building my first small brushless drone, and I’m hoping for something fun, quick, and I’d like to get 6-8 min of playtime out of it per charge. Here’s my plan*:

Awesome E90 frame - 12g
F410 F4 AIO FC + 10A 4in1 ESC - 6.5g
RaceStar 8000KV - 3.3g/ea
Racestar 2035 4 blade props - 0.7g/ea
Eachine TX03 AIO FPV camera - 6g
FD8000 Mini FrSky receiver (w/telemetry!) - 1.5g

So, just “bench racing” this, it all adds up to 42g, plus whatever for wires and glue/zipties/etc to hold it all together. I may end up adding on a couple other tiny things, like a beeper, HM-11 bluetooth module, and maybe a compass, not really important. What is important is, what do I get for batteries? It took me about 20 minutes to find everything else in the build, and then I’ve been debating all night about batteries. I have no experience here, what kind of lifting capacity and current draw should I be expecting here, and what would be the difference in performance vs runtime of a 19g 300mah vs a 35g 500mAh vs a 46g 950mAh? Those are the 3 “good” 2S options I see in Hobbyking’s US warehouse, and shipping from the global warehouse is too expensive to be worth it, IMO. The 4th is running a pair of 16g 600mAh 1S in parallel, which at the moment is looking to me like a very good option in capacity vs weight, and I could run them in my brushed 1S drones as well. Is there something on HK I’ve missed, or is there somewhere else I should be looking for good batteries at a decent price? I’m trying to avoid ebay and banggood, just because they all look pretty shady and overrated, and Amazon looks to be mostly the same junk with different stickers at a higher price.

EDIT: Oh, and are JST connectors good enough, or should I be going with XT30?

*No plan survives first contact with the enemy reality

I’ve tried a few different sizes and makes now… and these have fantastic punch - best of anything I’ve tried and a very convenient purchase option.

It’s a no name battery with no c rating :wink: - but I like them so much I’ve ordered a total of 12 now.
They come in at 20g each and give me 3 min flight time on a similar weight build but with 10000kv dys 1102’s and the same 3 min on my babyhawk. That’s pushing a lot of full throttle - they will go longer at cruising speeds but I don’t really ever do that. I would also recommend getting the 95mm version of that frame so you can spin a full 2" prop.

Grayson hobby has the stock babyhawk battery at a decent deal too. It’s also small and lightweight. I have not tried them though but at least it’s a USA vendor.

The other battery that’s a solid hit is the mylipo 480mah. Those are fantastic cells - but was over the weight limit for me at 30g. I think they also have a 400mah at close to 20g.

Anyway, if you’re looking for performance - don’t run a battery heavier than 20g - it’s diminishing returns above that.


I decided to go with the 1S’s in parallel. Turnigy Nano-tech 300mAh 45C are $2.84 apiece, and weight 9g. I need something different for my 1S builds anyways, EZGUI is constantly complaining about battery voltage dropouts, apparently generic 800mah X5C batteries and Racestar motors don’t go together well. Yesterday it was saying I was as low as 1.6v during hard punches. So I picked up a bunch, and a couple nanotech and graphene 600mah 1S, and I’ll see how it goes. I was going to get a couple of the 300mah 2s batteries, but they apparently sold out while I was trying to decide.

1 Like

Lihv bolts.

Hi !
I personally tested 3 kind of 2S with my mini 90mm brushless (7500kv Dys BE1104 that sucks a lot).

  • First experience with JST connector and 300mAh noname written 30C (about 20grs) = I had FC reboot on some punch and quick yaw
  • definitly I changed for XT30 pigtail and purchased good lipo EPS 500mAH 75C (34grs) = Yeah no problem anymore + longer flight + much power all the time
  • I also purchased some Bolt 500mAh HV 65C (33grs) converted in XT30 = good power for about hald flight and then suddenly no juice and the flight is boring (but no FC reboot)

I would suggest to go on high C if you want to perform even if the weight is higher.
If you want to cruise you can go on the bolt though