$1 (US) whoop batteries

My lil hellion Wiley gets the props for this find. He was on youtube 1 second, the next second he says Dad buy 100 of these batteries (and hands me the phone.) so we can fly more… (He’s 4 years old)


I’m thinkin for that price I’ll solder new connectors.
Anyone have any advice for direct soldering wire on a lipo?

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Definintely a fantastic deal!

Are those the solid pin ones? If you’re not sure I can dig out my stash over the weekend and get the part number for the solid pin ones off the bag for ya. And for soldering them, I’d suggest mating the female to a male with a heatsink clipped to the pins on side opposite where you’re soldering. I don’t know about these exact ones, but with some of them, if you breathe on them too heavily, the plastic shell melts and the pins go all wonky.

Tempted to order a few myself at that price. :grin::+1:

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Yeppers please when you get a minute post that part number, thanks for the heads up bro. I had the melting happen while in flite once. The whoop just dropped out of the sky, took days to sort out what happened.


Batteries normally have the female ph2 connector, the male end with solid pins go on the quad.

If you want to convert the batteries to ph2 the best way would to crimp on new connectors to the existing wires, then you would need :

  • 1 PHR-2 receptacle
  • 2 SPH-001T-P0.5L crimp contacts

per battery and a crimping tool, engineer PA09 for instance.

An alternative (and much less work) would be to oder a bunch of the cheap batteries and solder a red jst plug to the quad so you do not need to convert any batteries.

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JST should be better and more durable than ph2.0. But I don’t know the weight difference…

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@Edwin No sir I’ll take my chances with soldering. I wasn’t a fan of crimps Vs Solder joints before I got into kwads.
@silverAG agreed sir jst is better but heavier. Probably like a half to three quarters of a gram difference in weight. I’ll post exact weight differences when the parts get home.

Sure, I prefer direct soldering as well whenever possible but if you are going to solder a ph2 female pigtail direct to your battery then the inside of the female ph2 is going to be crimped anyway. So why not save yourself the hassle and crimp onto the existing leads.

I have converted many picoblade whoop packs to ph2 and recently split several 3s 333mah mylipo packs to 1s ph2 whoop packs with the mylipo conversion kits and can tell you those battery tabs on the 1s lipo cells are very fragile and can only take a little bit of heat before the lipo seal melts. If you are going that way it is best to clamp a heat sink in the form of alligator clips or similar between the lipo and the part of the tab you are soldering to, that has a much higher chance of success and prevents leaking.

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@Edwin thats the kind of information I’m looking for good sir Thank you. Knowledge plus Xp,
bonus it’s only 9:07am here in Texas and I have already learned something new today.
PS: I had been wondering how the split lipos have been working out?

According to my scale the difference in weight between a m/f pair of red jst connectors and a pair of ph2 connectors is 0.4g heavier for the jst.

The split packs have been doing good and I assume just as well as 333mah lipos that come from the factory as 1s. On my 7mm whoops the flight time of semi agressive flying is around 3:40 to 3:50. When using 255 mah packs that is around 2:50 to 3:10. So not a completely linear increase in flight time but that is expexted as the cells are heavier. I hope they will bring 3+ min flight times to my 7mm whoop with decased sq12 hd camera but have not been able to test that one yet.